Float-n-Fly for Giant Bass

Rod

We use fly rods between 8'6" and 9'6". The Okuma Celilo in these two lengths are some of our favorites. It has a nice backbone for casting and fighting yet still light and whispy to sling your rig to the target. And full retail is only around $59. --which raises another point... A float-n-fly rod doesn't0 have to be expensive. There are crappie/panfish rods that work well for under $40. St.Croix's 9' Salmon/Steelhead rod in the Triumph Series (here's a link) is quickly becoming one of the most popular choices for float-n-fly, and they also have a hugely popular 8'6" in the Premier lineup.

Float

You don't want to use just any old bobber for your float. A float-n-fly float is a specialized piece with a particular set in the water ---it should stand up when supporting your tiny weighted fly, and lay over when that weight isn't pulling it down. Typically, float-n-fly floats are weighted to sit lower in the water and lay over on their side when the fly is falling or has been lifted by a rising fish (important!). It will also indicate that your fly is sitting on the bottom.

If you are new to the technique, try Bob's Bobbers, but understand that there are other balsa and foam floats that improve casting distance. You can also make your own by using the cheap weighted floats common in panfish tackle. Whatever float you choose, GO LIGHT! You don't want the fish to feel the pull of the float against the fly. Use only just enough buoyancy to position the fly at your target depth. Also keep in mind that very small floats can be difficult to see at the end of a cast; especially if there is some chop and reflected light on the water.

Leader

Float-n-Fly fishing is a finesse technique, so you need to use a low-vis fluorocarbon in a small diameter. Imagine that bass down there studying your lure --if it sees your line, you won't get the bites, so use a light fluorocarbon line. We use 6-8 lb fluoro. Sunline's 7 lb Sniper line is excellent for leader material.

Main Line

Select a main line that is stronger than your leader line. This will allow you to keep your float and 3-way swivel when you snag a rock or blow down (and yes, you WILL loose a lot of flies to snags). As for line performance, lighter line will allow you to cast further. We use 8 lb braid, with 6 or 7 lb leader line. You might elect to 10 lb braided main line and 8 lb leader for a stronger setup. With this stronger setup, you can sometimes straighten a fly hook on a snag and get the whole thing back, then re-shape the hook with some pliers.

Fly

The fly you choose doesn't have to be a weighted hair jig. You can actually use anything that resembles a small baitfish. However, the reason float-n-fly anglers use them is because they work! The subtle pulsing of the skirt gives it a natural, the bright colors draw attention, the light weight gives it a subtle drift... Experiment if you like, but 1/16th and 1/32nd oz weighted hair jigs will but BIG fish in the boat. And Red Rooster flies work better than any we've tried. Red Rooster is the maker of the "Carter's Lake Special" fly (below) that was featured in Stihl's Reel in the Outdoors with Joe Thomas. You can order them online by clicking here.

Reel

A float-n-fly rod is extra long, and your main line is light and easily pushed around by wind and waves. The result is an arrangement in which you often need to take up A LOT of line really quickly. When your float starts to sink, you literally have milliseconds to react before the fish detects something wrong and spits your fly. So high-speed, large arbor reel will make a big difference in line management, and will also help with casting distance when using light line.

However, the most important feature of your float-n-fly reel should be smooth drag. The best line is going to be extremely light, and the potential for catching really big bass is high. The result: your line will be put to the test. Select a reel that eases the workload and prevents that trophy from getting away. Drag should be buttery smooth and set extremely light.